Saturday, August 14, 2010

Blouse Burda "Frankenpattern"

Three's a charm, so here's my third, best-fitting blouse so far:

The inspiration:
Fall fashion previews made me crave a flowered blouse to wear with chunky cardigans when the time comes. As usual, I'm fastest when I begin to sew after inspiration strikes. I thought of this on Thursday, decided on a stash fabric (intended for pajamas!) and sewed the bodice on Friday and finished it up today.

How I did it:

I started with pattern Burda 8/2007/114 that I made this blouse from. Since that was a bit snug in the bust and billowy in the waist especially in back, I tried it on and decided to add a good inch in front. To take out the front width in the waist, and to further take in the back, I took the back darts of the original pattern (2 of them) and tripled them - 4 in back, 2 in front. I looked at a RTW blouse and positioned the front darts about 1/2 inch down and towards the middle from the bust darts' tip, the back darts were just spaced somewhat evenly. I lucked out, the fit is great:
(Worn with skirt Burda 4/2009/101 reviewed here.)
Other changes made to the bodice front and back:
I made the bottom curve more shallow and as usual (I have a long torso) a bit longer.
The armholes were cut a bit deeper.
The shoulder curve was straightened by about 1/3 inch. I did this by taking a bit off at the neck side of the shoulder since I have a slim neck and didn't want to tighten the armhole.
I just "re-drafted" with my shears, so I don't have a pattern of the changes I made. Hopefully I'll remember to look it up here next time!
I then took the sleeves and collar from pattern 3/2010/124 which I made here. I made the sleeve band according to my arm circumference not the pattern. I didn't redraft the sleeve after changing the armhole because this sleeve has a lot of ease which took care of any differences.
After not quite liking the collar (and doing it upside down) last time I did a lot of measuring and a bit of re-sewing this time to get it right. Sewing collars still isn't my favorite, but it worked! I also added shell pink buttonholes and button thread. Why? Because I could!
One last question:
I think this fabric is called "dotted Swiss cotton" in English (I love how light and transparent it is! See the gratuitous "lightbox" shot above.) What is it called in German? (I think I know more English sewing words than Germans by now, thanks to all the English sewing blogs!)
Here's to sewing when everything goes just right!


  1. It's lovely and the fit is wonderful! It is so nice when everything comes together.

  2. What a great blouse - the fit truly is perfect and the fabric is wonderful!!

  3. The blouse looks lovely, especially the fitting detail in the back with the darts, and the fabric is adorable. So glad it worked out so perfectly for you. It will look great alone or with a chunky cardigan, as you mention.

  4. Very nice! It fits beautifully :)

  5. Your blouse is so pretty and feminine. I really like yellow flowers on a white background, so fresh and clean looking. And your comment about wearing it with a chunky cardigan made me realize I need to think differently about seasonal sewing. It is still very warm here where I live. I still have summery floral print fabrics I would love to sew, but I was hesitating and thinking that because it was August I should starting my fall sewing. I need to stop categorizing garments by season and figure out how to wear them between seasons with the addition of an accessory or by layering them with warmer garments like you plan to do. Thanks for the idea.

  6. That's such a pretty, feminine blouse. Looks like you have achieved a perfect fit. Nice work!

  7. So pretty - feminine and practical.

  8. So pretty! I love that sweet floral print.

  9. I love this blouse so much. Perfect!



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