Coat collar

The coat has been almost done since before the weekend - just handsewing the hems and closures are left. This is such a personal record I can hardly believe it! It certainly proves a TNT (tried-and-true pattern)'s worth (and the simplicity of the pattern didn't hurt either!). I'm tempted to continue sewing variations of this pattern into eternity - a jacket a week, now wouldn't that be nice?

Thank you for your nice comments on the pockets (I thought it might be welt pockets, but the translation software had me confused there...) and your vote of confidence on the collar. In the end, I followed my first hunch to go with the collar-less silhouette. This is the collar now:

Front:

Back:

This is how I drafted it:

First, I decided on the size of the neck opening. I wanted the neck to be 3 cm higher on all sides than the opening was when I had just sewn the front/back/raglan sleeves together. Since I have a rather thin neck, I thought this would leave the neck free, including the curve at the nape, so I wouldn't have to put a curve in the collar.

Then I decided on the width of the neck band; I thought 4 cm like the pocket flaps would be fine.

Last, the shape. Since I didn't want the collar to go up the neck, but to lie flat like an extension of the back/front/(raglan) sleeves, I basically just extended those pattern pieces.

How-to: Tape the front, sleeve and back pattern pieces together at the neck.

Put tissue paper on top; trace and extend the seam/front edge lines.

Trace new pattern 1 cm from neck seam line inside the existing pattern and 3 cm outside of it (= 4 cm neck binding). I cut this apart to make two pattern parts: Extension of the front/front sleeve pattern, and of the back sleeve/back pattern, to be cut on the fold.

Viola!

Full disclosure:

I should have added some width toward the top of the "collar"; it's a little tight at the back neck. I even considered this and noted it on the pattern pieces, but it's so hard to tell the exact fit with upper collar, under collar, facings etc. before the collar is sewn and pressed, and in the end I decided against it.

Also, I made the mistake of not grading the seam allowances at the meeting point of upper collar/under collar/facing. Since I interlined the front and back pieces with cotton flannel, that's a lot of fabric at that seam. I cut it all off too short to grade any more, so in combination with the tight back neck this gives me a little "hump" in the back. Nothing I am going to lose sleep over; just be sure not to make the same mistake!

I'm planning to put snaps on it for closures, not to disturb the clean lines (aside from the embroidered border). I have no idea what's on offer around here; I may have some shopping adventures to share next time!

Flap pockets and delusions of grandeur

I. The pockets

Considering that I don't even know the correct translation ("Pattentaschen" in German), I am extremely pleased with my pockets. Here is one, someone please tell me the correct term (dictionary says flap pockets, but the flap is stitched down on the short ends/open on one side only).

I consulted my Burda book on techniques (same wording as the Burda magazine instructions, but with pictures!), and fearlessly sewed/cut away. I'm still not 100 % sure I did the right thing with the itty bitty triangles, but it looks like it should.

Irrelevant story: About a dozen or so years ago, I sewed an anorak jacket for my now-husband. Which had the same pockets. Being 99 % self-taught, and only going by Burda magazine instructions at the time (I didn't even own a book on sewing techniques), I had no idea that these pockets were hard or difficult to do. Heck, I had no idea Burda instructions were hard to understand sometimes; if I got it wrong, I just figured it was my fault.

Well, long story short, I finished the anorak, it looked wearable but nowhere near as good as this, and I renamed the "Pattentasche" "Fluchtasche". Cursing pocket. Because that's what I did, a lot. I asked DH whether he remembered the jacket. He said, of course, the one with the "Fluchtaschen". He was duly impressed.

II. The collar

This success may have gone to my head, since I am now considering drafting a different collar than what the pattern has.

The pattern is Burda 9/2007 no. 105 that I made this jacket from (there's a coat with basically the same pattern pieces; it's pattern no. 104). I put it on and took a picture to determine whether I'd like it in a coat. And I did not find the collar as bad when I had it on as expected. (The collar is fine; it's just my construction that was lacking.) Hmm.

The collar as you see is Peter Pan-like, and it might be a bit juvenile/playful for the embroidered fabric. After my last jacket went together alright, I would expect the collar to work out this time as well, but still. Here's the coat as it is now:

I'm considering adding a strip of fabric around the neck, like a facing, that does not stand up but just gives a nice edge. The shape would basically be a collarless coat. I think I could figure out the construction (I hope).

What do you think? Is it a good idea? Or am I losing touch with reality?

Happy sewing!

Fickle mojo

My mojo is fickle. My sewing ADD has something to do with that. Does anybody else have this problem?

I love planning a garment. What fabric, what pattern, what else to make that goes with it.

My problem: If I overthink this, the garment is done. If only in my mind, but it's done. And I lose interest.

So I'm trying to trick myself/my mojo. I'm invited to a wedding. I have spring fever, but the crocuses aren't out yet, and the temperatures are freezing. I have this lovely, flowery wool fabric, and this green wool knit that makes me think of spring meadows. Perfect.

(You've seen two of the fabric pieces before. I've contemplated a coat here, and a top here.)

I'm trying to go with the mojo that says, make a coat and a dress. I set scissors to fabric almost right after the thought. The coat is cut out, pockets are sewn, I'm trying hard to sew faster than I can think. Almost.

Next up: coat pattern and pockets.

P.S. Again, I find myself emulating a fellow sewer I admire. Last week, I looked at the beautiful coat Shannon made about two years ago. Now, I find myself making a beige coat (albeit embroidered) with a rusty orange lining. True story: this was the only coat fabric in my stash (about three years old) and the only satin piece long enough for a coat lining (originally bought for a blouse).

Tote bag

I made a tote bag today. I'm a bit embarrassed to show it off. Such simple sewing; but then
again, whole sewing books have been sold on the concept of simple sewing - and why not?

DD could use a bag for her musical lessons, and I had some of this adorable zoo animal quilting fabric left over, so together with some brown corduroy left over from these pants, a green button left over from these pants, orange fabric left over from this table runner, and ribbon left over from these pants, I put together a tote bag.

DD's comment? "I don't want it. There's no Prinzessin Lillifee* on it."

Kids.

*Prinzessin Lillifee, for those lucky ones who don't know her (translation: "Princess Lillifairy"), is a very pink, very blonde, very sparkly character designed to sell anything that doesn't yet have a Disney princess on it. And girls love it.

Now, I'm all for letting kids develop their own taste. And I'm all for someone having their own style, even if that means a lot of pink. But sometimes, people, a mom needs a break!

Costume sewing (what else?)

Hello, I'm back.

I still have to get my bearings. Not sure how long that'll take. Two weeks of single mommy duty, topped with one (the last) day of Cologne carnival. Oof.

I did sew a bit.

One skirt, not sure it'll go with the SWALP, and it still needs hemming, so I'll show you later.

One costume (what else?). On Weiberfastnacht, I cranked up the carnival music, made a pattern out of DS's snow overall, and tacked together this Pooh bear costume. Front, side/back, and one happy bear after collecting all the carnival candy.

Alaaf!

Blogging break

First of all, thank you so much for the wonderful compliments on my jacket! I may consider sewing another one, after all...

Second, just a short note to say I'm off on vacation. As far as spending two and a half weeks with two little ones (DH is only coming for a couple of days) at freezing temperatures by the stormy North Sea counts as a vacation! We're doing this for the third time, hoping that the rough climate and clean air help DD with her frequent lung infections, as they're supposed to.

Anyway, I'm taking my sewing machine again, and although I don't have many or ambitious plans, if my mojo decides to return, I'm armed and ready! I will not have any internet connection there, which is just as well since an internet fast does me good from time to time, and it makes me look forward to all the great things you are going to show on your blogs when I return.

Happy sewing!

Jacket Burda 9/2007 no. 105

I made DH take pictures of the jacket on me, which is a good thing, because seeing the pictures I like it even more, and am more likely to forgive and forget all the hard work that went into it!

(Details. The pocket lining peeks out and needs to be tacked on!)

I don't have the heart for a full recap, including the back stay (sewing book: "Cut the back stay according to the back stay pattern." Me: "???), but I put quite a bit of tailoring in it, and I think it shows. From the front, I absolutely love it; the back, although it feels like it fits, doesn't look quite as good, but I'll take it as is and keep this filed away for the next time: Take a picture of the back during the fitting process.

(Back: with buttons open at left, buttons closed at right.)

Another lesson learned: Towards the end of such an involved project, take steps to avoid sewing ennui (which steps, I'll have to figure out yet!)

All in all, it looks like I imagined it would, goes well with the rest of my wardrobe, and will hopefully get lots of wear!

Have a great Sunday, everyone.